It’s been eight long years since my last DIY guide on building a Tiny Whoop. Since then, the FPV racing world has witnessed remarkable advancements, rendering it no longer necessary to build your own bespoke Tiny Whoop. With BNF fashion, you can effortlessly take to the skies and enjoy a seamless flying experience – often at a more affordable price point than building one yourself. While building a Tiny Whoop from scratch is an unparalleled opportunity to learn the basics of FPV drones, understand how each component interacts, and have a thrilling project. In this tutorial, I will guide you through a cost-effective yet remarkably high-performance Tiny Whoop build. We’ll review key elements, master the course flow, and share a few practical tips to ensure your inaugural project achieves success.
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Discover the thrill of building and flying your own Tiny Whoop, a perfect entry point for students interested in exploring the exciting realm of first-person view (FPV) drones. Building a lightweight Tiny Whoop is an accessible and empowering experience for newcomers to the world of FPV drone flight, making it an ideal starting point for those looking to dip their toes into this exciting hobby.
These micro drones are cost-effective, compact, and lightweight, rendering them significantly safer to operate compared to larger drones. Given the training benefits of simulator flights without risking actual damage or injury, these devices are ideal for novice pilots seeking a safe and realistic learning experience.
This design reduces soldering requirements, making it a simple and accessible option for beginners to work with. For this Tiny Whoop build, you’ll need to solder the motors to the flight controller, a straightforward process requiring just three connections per motor. The remaining components are plug-and-play, making this project ideal for those new to soldering or seeking a straightforward endeavor.
The primary objective of this Tiny Whoop design is to achieve an overall weight of less than 17 grams, resulting in a lightweight yet resilient micro drone with impressive agility. Achieving such a low weight is an extraordinary challenge—the lightest Tiny Whoop variant currently available weighs in at over 17g, necessitating meticulous planning and precision to stay beneath this threshold.
Compared to its competitors, our custom-built Mobula 6 2024 model, at a mere 16.8 grams, outshines the standard Mobula6 2024 at 17.7 grams and even Air65’s center-weighted version at 17.2 grams, showcasing exceptional lightness.
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To build a high-performance Tiny Whoop, you’ll need to choose from advanced components offering unparalleled efficiency compared to standard alternatives.
While constructing your own custom Whoop drone model may require a higher upfront investment compared to purchasing a pre-assembled one, the added benefit of tailoring the design to meet your specific needs and preferences can be well worth the extra effort. For enthusiasts seeking a hassle-free flying experience, the BNF model offers a reliable and straightforward option. If you’re seeking the thrill of building a high-performance drone that meets your exact specifications, this guide provides the perfect starting point.
At the heart of this innovative setup lies the BetaFPV Air 5in1 All-In-One (AIO) board, a revolutionary component that is poised to transform the industry landscape. At a mere 4.9 grams, this ultra-lightweight board consolidates the functionality of a flight controller, ESC, OSD, VTX, and ExpressLRS receiver into a single, compact unit. This design does not only simplify the construction process but also significantly reduces its overall weight. While a 4in1 model is available without a receiver, we generally suggest opting for the more comprehensive 5in1 model unless you plan to utilize a dedicated receiver like the TBS Crossfire Nano.
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I chose BetaFPV’s latest 0702 30,000KV motors for this build. These high-KV motors truly excel in ultra-light builds, delivering unparalleled responsiveness and velocity. While decreased KV variations like 27000KV or 23000KV can offer longer flight times, they often exhibit diminished effectiveness in ultra-light builds, a trend that became particularly evident during my repeated testing of these configurations. With the upper-KV motors, pilots enjoy added flexibility to tailor their experience: adjust motor output or reduce throttle in Betaflight for a smoother, more controlled flight that’s ideal for those seeking a more leisurely pace? I’ve got a tutorial that explains how to scale down throttle effectively – just click the link!
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The NewBeeDrone LiteAF body, a featherweight marvel at just 2.4 grams, currently holds the distinction of being the lightest body available for purchase on the market today.
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The BetaFPV Meteor65 Air frame is a versatile option, utilized within the model, and weighs only slightly more at 2.8 grams with enhanced durability. Get it from BetaFPV:
I opted for the BetaFPV Air Cover due to its seamless compatibility with our chosen digicam. It’s effortlessly efficient and lightweight, harmoniously aligning with the rest of the structural components.
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I selected the BetaFPV CO3 analog digital camera for my video, as it strikes a vital balance between resolution and field of view. Coming with a convenient connector, this allows for seamless plugging directly into the BetaFPV AIO board without any need for soldering, ensuring a hassle-free setup.
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Designed specifically for high-performance applications with 0702 motors, these Ultralight Triblade props excel when paired with 30,000-KV motors like ours, thanks to their remarkably lightweight construction, weighing in at approximately 0.5 grams per four-piece set. They demand significantly less torque to rotate smoothly, providing a crucial balance between efficiency and robustness. Another popular option is the Gemfan 1219S propeller, weighing approximately 0.8 grams per four-blade set, offering only slightly increased durability at a marginally higher weight. These are glorious selections for a 65mm Tiny Whoop build.
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To pilot this Tiny Whoop, you’ll require a few additional components and accessories.
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Check out our latest article for additional Tiny Whoop accessories and gear.
Solder the BT2.0 battery connector onto the facility pads of the flight controller, exercising meticulous attention to polarity, as the blue wire represents positive (+) and the white wire corresponds to negative (-).
To avoid any potential issues, consider trimming the connectors on your motors, retaining approximately 28-29 millimeters of exposed wire from the motor base. Confirm that the motor and flight controller are dry-fitted to verify the required wire gauge prior to any electrical connections being made.
Ensure that you don’t leave an excessive amount of wire, as this excess could potentially place undue stress on the solder joints following assembly. Depart with a little slack ideally. To prevent unnecessary wire movement and potential interference with spinning propellers, consider twisting excess slack to keep it neatly secured.
Some Whoop FC models come equipped with motor connectors, allowing you to simply plug in your motors without the need for soldering. Despite their benefits, terminal blocks still incur additional weight and increase electrical resistance compared to direct soldering. Direct soldering is generally considered the most efficient method for achieving optimal results.
Remove a minimal amount of insulation from each wire end and coat with modern solder.
Apply a controlled amount of solder flux to the motor pad terminals on the flight controller, ensuring they are receptive to soldering.
Securely connect the motor’s electrical leads to the designated receptacles on the circuit board. Small in size, these pads require a gentle touch and sustained effort, especially for those new to the art of soldering. To prevent overheating, it’s crucial to take measures to reduce heat buildup around the pads, lest they become damaged or even destroyed by rising temperatures?
Since the wire sequence doesn’t impact performance, modification is possible through software.
Position the rubber grommets securely within the four recessed areas of the front cover (FC).
Install the fuel cell into the vehicle’s designated compartment, ensuring accurate alignment, typically denoted by an arrow facing forward, while securing the battery connector at the rear.
Securely install the motors to the body using the provided screws. Two types of fasteners are provided: steel and plastic screw varieties. I opted for the lightweight plastic containers as they are easier to handle. You can shorten them to around 1.5mm thread size using a nail clipper.
When the motor wires exhibit slack, twist them minimally just prior to installation to ensure they remain organized and prevent stress on the solder connections.
Configure the First-Person View (FPV) camera and Video Transmitter (VTX) antenna inside the protective housing.
Connect the digital camera to the file cabinet?
It was observed that the cover obstructs the UFL antenna connector, which is a known issue within the Air65 community, with some users reporting that crashes can dislodge the connector.
To prevent damage, carefully shave the cover’s edge just enough to accommodate the connector’s insertion point. Consider incorporating a small amount of adhesive to the UFL connector to ensure it remains secure during impacts.
What’s your best run got? I’m working with props outside of their usual setup.
Congratulations! Your Tiny Whoop meetup is now at capacity.
With your Tiny Whoop now assembled, you’re ready to dive into the world of Betaflight configuration. New to Betaflight? Try my newbie’s information:
Connect the USB adapter to the flight controller, then insert the USB cable into your laptop.
Optimizing your Tiny Whoop’s performance requires a thoughtful approach to configuration. Here’s what you need to know:
The correct settings appear to be: Beneath are screenshots of the Betaflight Configurator settings for this configuration. For users with identical setup configurations, you can easily replicate my settings by copying and pasting the information.
The BetaFPV AIO FC ships with the Bluejay 0.19 firmware, featuring a sampling rate of 96kHz out of the box. Consider recommending that users flash the latest version of the Bluejay model, specifically 0.21 at 48 kHz, for enhanced performance and optimal results. Discover the steps to successfully flash Bluejay firmware by exploring our comprehensive guide.
I successfully accomplished the challenging task of designing a lightweight construction weighing under 17 grams, exceeding initial performance predictions with a highly impressive primary flight.
The 1S 300mAh battery enabled a flight time of approximately 19 minutes when flown aggressively, a 10-15 second reduction compared to flights with the 27,000 KV motors. Notwithstanding the enhancement in flight efficiency, it’s truly worth it from my perspective. As I transitioned from 23,000KV to 27,000KV, the drone’s performance noticeably improved, exuding an air of heightened effectiveness, agility, and responsiveness, as if I were piloting a lightweight whoop.
For just $130, you can assemble a Tiny Whoop with remarkable aerodynamic performance.
Building an FPV drone from the ground up offers a unique opportunity to develop a profound grasp of these innovative vehicles. This starter kit is an affordable, dependable option that provides a practical hands-on experience with building, setting up, and piloting a first-person view (FPV) drone. You’ll acquire fundamental soldering skills with negligible risk, since only the motors necessitate soldering.
Whether navigating indoor spaces or flying in confined areas, this TinyWhoop provides an engaging and instructive experience, helping to build your confidence before progressing to larger drones.
